The first order of business was a 2,000 ft climb from 8,000 to 10,000 feet. Not more than an hour into my hike I looked across a stream and saw an adult black bear foraging around a downed tree. The sound of the water must have masked my approach, so I got some awesome photos and a video before he noticed me and sauntered off. By my estimate he was probably a good 200 lb bear. After that I crossed a number of small streams, and for the first time all trip I was swarmed by mosquitoes. I was wearing long sleeves and long pants as usual, so their only targets were my hands, neck and face. I got into the habit of carrying both poles in one hand and swatting with the other. About halfway up I ran into the Bum Brothers breaking camp, so we chatted for a little before I continued on. It wasn't long before first Travis then Marcus overtook me, as I was struggling under the dual challenge of a heavy pack and high altitude. When I crossed 9,500 ft I really did notice the difference, but this time it was easier than when I first hit this elevation on Baden Powell. We crossed 10,000 and made it all the way to 10,400 (2 miles!) before descending again. My body loved the descent back down to more reasonable altitudes.
On the north face there was still some snow, so I collected some for a lunchtime Sierra Slushie. Delicious. After lunch I dozed off for about an hour. Wow, walking at this altitude really takes it out of you. I can't imagine how it will be when I summit Mount Whitney in a few days, especially because it is the tallest point in the continental US at something like 14,500 feet. My plan is to climb in the early morning and catch the sunrise from the top. Should be pretty awesome, plus since its a new moon the view if the stars from the top should be breathtaking as well.
At the bottom of the descent I ran into Steamy sitting next to a creek, totally mosquito free while I was being swarmed. His secret was Off! and I have to remember to pick some of that stuff up when I have a chance. As I went ahead I noticed some funny circles drawn in the dirt on the trail. Looking closer I realized someone had circled bear tracks, and they ran along with the PCT for a good 100 yards before veering off. So one bear sighting plus signs of another. And this is only a couple dozen miles into the Sierras... Steamy caught up to me when I was resting next to Death Canyon Creek and we talked about the bear tracks. We both drank from the creek despite the name - it would't be named that for the water, right? I did purify it with iodine just to be safe. Looking back though, one desert water source was named Poison Creek, but the water report indicated that it was safe, and most of us drank from that as well... From the creek there was another 1,500 ft climb to 10,600 and I had no intention of making it all the way this evening. 20 miles in these conditions as my body acclimates is stretching it too far, and the extra weight is no help either. Plus, this is one of the areas I was most excited to see, so why in the world would I want to rush through it? I did the first two miles of the climb before dinner, plus another after. The mosquitoes made my dinner take twice as long due to the constant need to swat at them, so I can understand why some people will set up a tent at dinner, even if they are moving on right after.
Especially since I've now seen one bear and signs of another, stealth camping is critical. That means cooking in one spot, then walking on further to a spot that doesn't smell so strongly of food. I even made sure to brush my teeth at dinner so the toothpaste wouldn't attract a bear tonight. Part of my food is in bags, the rest in the bear-proof canister, so I'm rolling the dice once again that I can get away without attracting the attention of this forest's hungriest inhabitant.
Miles Today: 19
Trip Mileage: 735
Photo: Bear!
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